From the lonesome trail to crowds

Last night I was the only person staying at a little hut.  It reminded me of an old-school youth hostel: dodgy beds, no showers, only cold water.  Yet it was the most expensive stop so far!  However, a massive meal of soup, a mountain of pasta and apfelstrudel was very welcome: I have to admit that my normal vegetarian diet has been shamelessly abandoned in favour of much needed protein.  Even more welcome after uncomfortable bivouacs was a good night's sleep.

This morning the pass I aimed at didn't live up to its name - it proved impassable because of severe damage by snowfall and avalanches.  So I had to descend 500m and climb up 1,500m to reach my peak of the day, then, to get some lunch, drop down to another pass.  After many days not seeing another soul, what an assault on the senses!  There were hundreds of cyclists attracted by numerous hairpin bends rising to 2,700m, stalls selling trinkets and tat, but also fortunately offering wurst for my lunch.  Now I have a long route ahead of me this afternoon.

Bikka mecca stelvio pass 

Ortler from the path to the stelvio pass