Valfréjus

It was a reasonable bivvy last night, but it was cold enough this morning to start walking in my down jacket and gloves before stopping at an amazing bakery in Valfréjus to breakfast off croissants and hot chocolate.  Then followed a walk by Mont Thabor down to a hut for a sandwich by a pleasant little lake.  It's a cool, sunny, breezy day and the scenery is less grand than before, more Mediterranean - dry, many pine trees and lumpy scree mountains, which I'm not tempted to climb.  Now I'm sitting in a little café in the valley having an amazing ice cream, a pastry and a very nice beer.  Well, most people come to France to enjoy the food, so why shouldn't I?

Seven weeks completed

Today I celebrated seven weeks of walking by climbing the Dent Parachée in cool but good weather.  Fortunately I managed to overtake two parties before ascending a couloir to the col - a frightful 50 degree slope of very loose stones and a most unpleasant and fairly dangerous place, most definitely demanding a helmet.  It was impossible to avoid dislodging stones, so it was good not to be in the firing line from anyone above me.  Once on the col, a nice ridge led up to the summit, from where there were sensational views of Mont Blanc, the Grandes Jurasses and, south of me, Monte Viso.  The couloir was no more pleasant on the way down, but I got back to the hut in time for lunch; then a pleasant 13 km walk to Modane.  The first hotel I tried was full and Modane is a drab place centred on the station, so after a pizza and ice cream (still staple items of my diet) I decided to press on and bivouac.  It's one of the pleasures of the trip to go by instinct and change plans.  I did remember passing through Modane in the middle of the night years ago while inter-railing, so twice I've not seen fit to stop there.

A Diversion

Yesterday turned out to be a long day because I carried on to the next hut, the Refuge Fournache.  It was a brilliant afternoon, with a strong wind, white horses on the lake, a vibrancy in the atmosphere and a wonderful contrast between sun, cloud and the shale-like mountains.  I intended to climb the Dent Parrachée today, but there was too much stonefall so instead I followed a great path traversing the mountains and returned to the Fournache hut tonight.  Again, the weather today was amazing, windy with clouds constantly forming and evaporating.  I'm hoping to do the mountain tomorrow if I get a good night's sleep.

The beautiful Vanoise National Park

I continue to go well - almost 40 km yesterday including a big ascent and still reached the Col de Palet hut at 5.15 pm. This proved to be a really good hut, where the guardian served up a big meal and I had a nice talk with a Swiss lady.  The guardian also suggested a few summits I might like to climb, though with a justified gentle warning this morning that I was setting off late for glacier crossing.  I set off in superb weather, with not a cloud in the deep blue sky, and climbed the Grande Motte, with a good ridge leading to the 2,650 m summit.  I'm now coming down to the Refuge de la Leisse on a perfect day.  The Vanoise is a protected area, with no camping, and the scenery is wonderful, with wild places to explore and good paths without too many people.  Bliss!   Should reach Modane in a couple of days if the good weather continues.

Into France going South

I've made very good progress over the last four days - from near the Matterhorn, past Mont Blanc and now into France.  I'm now at least two days ahead of schedule and going much better, partly because it's much cooler, but also I've got a better rhythm going on easier trails.  On the first night after leaving Courmayeur when the huts were fully booked, I found a bar open at 9.30 pm, had a coffee and then slept in a barn.  The next day I started early along the Tour de Mont Blanc trail, OK for the first couple of hours, but then thronged with people and rather boring.  This 25 km section is the only part of my entire1,800 km route which I've done before, though not exactly seen, because it was running through the night. Thankfully leaving the Tour de Mont Blanc trail, I crossed over the Col d'Estaing into France and down the far side in windy weather with dribs and drabs of rain through a scenic area with impressive boulders, pinnacles, mountain goats and a lovely lake.  The next hut being full, I pressed on to the next for a meal and welcome shelter for the night from wind and rain. Now I'm on the Grande Randonnée 5 route, leading south into the Parc National de la Vanoise and on down all the way to Menton, my ultimate destination.

Too many people!

The heavy rain of last night ceased at breakfast time, and a fine day helped me to reach Courmayeur early at 4.45 pm, despite being tempted to leave the Alte Via 1 trail to climb a small summit, thinking it would be quieter.  How wrong I was - there were hoards of people; maybe the peak was in a guide book.  Coumayeur was also heaving - it's now peak season and the crowds are not what I've come for, so I had something to eat, picked up my new boots and supplies and left.  Out of the frying pan of too much solitude into the fire of too crowded!  The problem is that the huts are now fully booked and I couldn't book anywhere for tomorrow night, when rain is again threatened.  I shall leave the Mont Blanc trail as soon as I can and meanwhile tonight find somewhere to bivouac.

It has been a good day though.  The views of Mont Blanc and the Grandes Jurasses were really fantastic, with lots of fresh snow from last night's storm and a plume of spindrift blowing off the summit.  It's been a breezy day and much cooler - I wore a top over my tee shirt for the first time on the journey.

St-Remy en Bosse

Yesterday evening I finally reached a good place for my bivouac at 9.30 pm and quickly got to sleep.  Waking in the night, the stars were brilliant and starlight outlined the jagged outline of the surrounding peaks.  Such a wonderful alpine experience.  Setting off early this morning, I decided not to use my poles today, helpful as they are in managing to walk with a heavy rucksack; through constant use I've developed a  repetitive strain injury in both wrists, which needs resting.  It was mostly a much better day than forecast, but in the last stages the weather broke and I got soaked before reaching St.Remy, at the foot of the Great St.Bernard pass.  Taking refuge in the hotel for coffee and cake, it being too expensive to stay there the night, the lady very kindly 'phoned a nearby B&B and directed me there.  It turned out to be a small apartment, complete with cooking facilities, so rather than set out again to a restaurant in the rain and thunder after an 11-hour day, I cobbled together a scratch meal.  If I continue lucky with the weather, I should reach Courmayeur tomorrow, a day earlier than expected, and I shall be pretty well back on schedule. 

Dinner at a bus stop

An excellent day today and I'm feeling so much better - I'm well and fit, it's not so hot and the paths are good, so progress is much easier and faster.  I'm now following the Alte Via 1, a much frequented trail used for the Tour de Geants, and plan to keep on this well signed route to Courmayeur, without deviating to climb any peaks.  Today I walked from Valtournenche to Oyace; the forecast thunderstorms didn't materialise, the scenery was good and I really enjoyed fluidity of movement in the absence of obstructing vegetation.  Two thirds of the time I've allowed have elapsed and I'm feeling good.  I hope to make Courmayeur by Sunday, when I can pick up new boots left for me at the Guides' office; I reckon the present ones will just about get me there!  Just now it's a lovely evening, I'm eating my dinner at a convenient bus stop and will bivouac in some alpine meadow.

Valtournenche!

Yesterday was a very long day, with 3,300m of ascent.  I reached a hut at 6.00 pm and was hungry, so I had some lasagne and a shandy, but was told the hut I was aiming for was closed.  Anyway I plodded on up into the cloud, rather regretting the shandy, until at 9.15 I arrived at the top of the Olen pass and found that the said hut was indeed closed, because semi-derelict.  Fortunately, by shifting a bench blocking the door, I got inside out of the cold cloud and actually had a good night sleeping on the floor.  Dawn revealed a good view of Monte Rosa and my descent joined the Monte Rosa trail.  How strikingly different from the wild, pathless, deserted terrain already traversed!  An excellent path, lots of people, signs indicating the degree of difficulty and estimated time of travel; difficult here though equates to dead easy on my prior travels.  It's something of a milestone to arrive in Valtournenche and a great advantage to restock at a selection of supermarkets and shops instead of an isolated bar.  And I've just had a four-course meal at a nice hotel.  Luxury!

On the way to Valtournenche

 

Piz del ton



On the Tour de Monte Rosa route

On a much better day than forecast, I wandered up on a GOOD path through shady woods to the Turlo pass on the Tour de Monte Rosa route - a revisit, but not running this time!  I'm now in tourist land, which is why the path is magnificent and so much easier.  After lunch at the pass I bounded down (feeling better!) to Alagna: lots of people around on holiday, with a more international mix and some speaking English.  I've now set off back up to the Loen pass; maybe I'll get to the top today, but that would amount to 3,100m of ascent and I haven't achieved that with my pack in a single day, so maybe not.  Anyway, Courmayeur in 5-6 days looks on.

Pizzo del Ton

As planned, today I got up the Pizzo del Ton; a nice scramble, having dumped the rucksack.  Still not feeling up to scratch though, possibly still suffering from the results of dehydration in the heat.  Today's journey led through a lovely wild area with many lakes, though in the heat two lakes had dried up completely.  Also coming down, the grass had been cut in places: nice not to have to struggle through tall grass, but dried out as shiny hay it was as slippery as ice and I had a few tumbles - not so nice.  Just when I needed somewhere to stop after another 12-hour day, I came across an amazing place run by the catholic church: inexpensive, super clean and I had a four-course meal.  One more big pass tomorrow as I skirt round Monte Rosa, then the going should get easier with less descent between passes.

Crowds again!

After a reasonable bivouac last night, day dawned fine and I set off down from the hut, but lost momentum.  After an ice cream to try to settle stomach cramps, thunder threatened, so I decided to go no further than the tourist resort of Largo di Antona rather than press on and bivvy in the open.  The crowds of people visiting the hydro lake for the day are quite a shock after my lonely walks, but they all disappeared by evening.  I need a rest, so am staying at an albergo, after lazing in a deck chair this afternoon waiting for the storm.  I've a fair old day tomorrow over the Pizzo del Ton on my way to Borca.  Hoping to reach Courmayeur in the next eight days.

Lovely walk in wood above Varzo

 

Last night I feasted on pizza, ice cream, bread and cake in the small Italian town of Varzo, stocked up on supplies for the next few days and slept at a decent albergo, though still woke up early.  I need more sleep!  This morning I took this craggy path up through lovely woods.

 

It led very steeply up for 1,700m, a long climb which took five and a half hours, and nowhere was there any water to drink.  With less than a litre in my rucksack, I probably became dehydrated and didn't feel too bright on reaching the top, the Pizzo di Royale.  But water there revived me, as did the first sight of some of the snowy alpine giants - Monte Rosa, the Lagenhorn and the Fletchhorn.  Today has still been sunny, hot and humid, but 15 minutes before I reached the next bivouac hut a storm broke, though I missed the worst of it.  Is this the break in the good weather and the prelude to heavy rain forecast in the next few days?  Tonight I'm not feeling well - I have a chill, aching legs and a stomach ache.  I pray I feel better tomorrow.

A 40km day

Last night's bivouac hut looked like a prefab building set amidst boulders and snow at 2,300m, but inside it was fine, with beds and a gas stove, though a trifle Spartan.  Still didn't sleep well though and started off tired; I decided not to climb the Offenhorn because the route didn't look good, so scrambled up a little nearby summit instead.  Then set off to walk 40km, mostly quite easy with less than 1,000m of ascent.  The scenery was pleasant, rather than dramatic and commanding attention, so 12 hours trudging along by myself was a trifle drab.  After nearly five weeks, I'm running out of ways to divert myself, with only 4 music albums on my phone and having listened to all the talks I recorded.  I continue to appreciate the wild flowers and beautiful butterflies though.

Exploring on the Basadino

Yesterday I felt much better for my rest the previous afternoon, the rucksack felt lighter and I went faster, starting at 7.30 am and reaching the next hut at Pieno del Este by 6.0 pm.  The hut wasn't so good, nor was the cooking, but there was a nearby mountain which promised well for exploration, making up my own route, armed with a  map but no guidebook.  So this morning I climbed up to the pass, dumped the rucksack and set off up Monte Bassadino, devising a route up slabs and over a little glacier.  The top was narrow with pinnacles, the day was fine with sun and cloud and the exploration proved a real delight.  Then I returned to the rucksack, had lunch, and walked down into the next valley; I'm now on the 4-hour climb to the next bivouac hut.  The scenery has improved, with U-shaped valleys and impressive rock faces, the paths are better and there's less vegetation - I'm feeling altogether better about the world!

Idyllic times on the river on the way to the Basadino

Yesterday morning I realised I was going slowly, I was unsteady on my feet and I felt utterly exhausted, so I said to God, let me know if this is a place to stop - and it was.  A lovely little private hut in Bignasco, in idyllic surroundings with lovely views, where I could sit outside on yet another fabulous day and go to bed in the afternoon.  The owners were very kind, I had three helpings of the meal, they gave me two blocks of army chocolate and there were people there to talk to.  It was definitely time to stop for an afternoon off and today I feel greatly refreshed by a good night's sleep.  Today is my last full day in Switzerland and I'm on my way to Basadino to cross into Italy. 

 

How wonderful to be able to enjoy the river on yet another hot day.  After the thunderstoms earlier in my journey, the unusually hot weather has been remarkable, and enjoyable apart from the flies and when slogging uphill.  Taking it slightly easier, I should make certain I enjoy the journey yet still catch up on my schedule.

Hurrah for ridges!

On Sunday night I bivvied by a little lake, rose at 4.40 am and set off again 5.45, slogging up another big hill.  The first part was lovely woods, then undergrowth and rocks, then meadow with what proved a good hut.  No-one there but run on an honesty basis with lots of food to buy, so I assuaged my hunger with a great pile of ravioli.  Off again at 12.30 up what looked a straightforward ridge, but which turned out to be quite involved with metal brackets for via ferrata but mostly unprotected.  It was so enjoyable though to be back walking along a ridge instead of across them!  There were three little summits, lots of wildlife and it was another glorious day, not quite so hot, so feeling tired I lay down for a while in the sunshine.  Then followed a difficult descent, arriving at the next hut around 7.00 pm. Another 12-hour day, but covering only about 22 km because it involved 2,800m of ascent and some scrambling, when the rucksack makes balancing tricky and progress is slow.

There was a German-speaking lady staying at the hut, so I had a bit of company for a change.  Unfortunately, the hut was being repaired and flapping plastic on the roof made for another restless night and I was off at 5.55 this morning for another long but wonderfully sunny day.  This is day 33 and half time in my journey, though I'm still a bit behind on my schedule.

 

View from Madamm Gross. The ridge is very like Teallach but grey.

 

 

Feeling like a fried egg

I'm making reasonable progress, but it's tedious crossing the grain of the land - repeatedly climbing up to a high pass and then down again into the forest, where you get no views.  And all the time concentrating on finding the next waymark, so easily missed, especially in the long meadow grass.  Very few people seem to use these by-ways and it can be quite lonely - I've met no English speakers since Cortina.  It's very hot and sunny, so whenever I come to water, I dip my cap in it and soak my head.  Stayed at a nice but expensive little Swiss hut last night but had to sleep on my mattress on the floor.  Today, having recovered a bit, I'm doing 35 km including some beautiful tarmac, but feeling like a fried egg.  Just had a beer to try to forget the heat; the rucksack seems a bit lighter today, but maybe it's just the beer.  Should soon be in Biasca.

Desperately trying to cool off in a pool. The hot sun has been relentless for all but one of the last 19 days.

Into Ticino

Last night I stayed at an unbelievable bivvy hut - with electricity, gas, water on tap, beds, sandals, food, all the cutlery you could want - even a great view. Consequently, I'm feeling better: life is good!

Now I'm half way up the big hill to the Pizzachino summit, then a 2,000m descent followed by another 1,700m climb up to the Buffalora hut.  The weather's amazing: hot and sunny, with a beautiful blue haze over the mountains.  Beats the frequent storms and static making my hair stand on end (not that I've much hair to stand on end), but it's very steep and hard going in the heat.  I'm now crossing into the Swiss canton of Ticino and face four massive passes over the next few days.  This is what makes it tough - many ascents over 1,400m with a heavy pack and gravity working against you the whole way.  The 2,000m ascents are killing.  I've adjusted my schedule to allow for the difficulty.

In the heat of the afternoon about to ascend 1600m to the buffalora pass.

Whats this? A path

What's this? A path! So, so much easier than the last two days. Heaven! On the path to the Forcola hut.  Also today, I never thought I would enjoy walking on tarmac so much, but luxury after recent days.  And now I'm staying the night at an unbelievable bivvy hut - electricity, gas, water on tap, beds, sandals, food, all the cutlery you could want - even a great view.  Life is good!

A very tough two days

No phone reception for the past two days, which proved by far the most demanding of my journey so far.  Altogether four 12-14 hour days one after another, with no recovery time, left me exhausted.  So, although I'm almost back on schedule, a change of strategy is called for.  Rather than taking rest days, after a few long, hard days I shall take an easier day, allowing me to recover yet not lose time. 

On Tuesday evening I reached the Bosio hut tired, but it was a wonderful hut, I was the only guest and I had an enormous meal of pasta, bread, meat, cheese and pudding - too much for my digestion next day!  After a massive storm in the night, I set out in uncertain weather up a path into a most forbidding area with rocky peaks all around.  Coming across the old abandoned Desio hut, I left the rucksack there and had a superb climb on red rock, along a knife edge with rock towers looming up out of the mist -the Corno Rosso, part of the 'Mountain of Peril'.  Then back down to the abandoned hut, pelted with hail and lightning striking 150m away.

Helmet on against the hail! This later froze. The abandoned hut was eerie in the storm.  After waiting for the storm to abate, I descended difficult ground on a glacier, then stoked up on cake at a hut, before following the sentiero Roma, a high level way-marked route but with no path, across boulders, with chains over the passes - very difficult ground to cover with any speed, so in 12 hours I covered only 16km.  Arriving at 8.30 pm at the small Ponti bivouac hut, I found two Italian lads there, so had a chat after eating.  But there was no time to recover before setting off again at 6.25 in the morning to tackle another 28km of extremely difficult going on the Sentiero Roma.  The whole way was continually up and down through hostile terrain with way marks to look out for, but no path, crossing boulder-strewn ground, with via ferrata chains in several passes.  I've had to recalibrate my timing: even 2km per hour with a rucksack is hard to maintain over such ground.  Carrying no food, I survived on breakfast at one hut and a bowl of pasta at another.  This wasa  day of real mountaineering, crossing a glacier with crampons, hard snow, and a nightmare descent over horrible loose scree, boulders and rocks in long grass.  I was so tired I kept falling over and when finally I got down at 9.00 pm, there was no sign of the promised albergo.  So I went into the village of Chiavena and found a restaurant of rather seedy appearance but had a good rest there. 

Although the scenery has been magnificent, I was truly glad to finish this toughest stage of the journey - four extremely hard days of having to concentrate on every step to avoid a slip.  Now I enter the easier country of the Ticino, but with failing equipment.  The locks on my poles are going and my shoes are totally worn on the soles and split on the uppers.  Interesting!

My peak today. A great exploratory adventure

Once had I set off uphill from Pozciavo yesterday evening, fortified by a pizza in the square, I walked for about two and a half hours before selecting for my bivvy a lovely little meadow at 900m, shared with the cows.  I went to straight to sleep and rose early, setting off on a beautiful sunny morning at 4.35, with cloud below me in the valley.  Two hours later, from the top of the pass, I spotted a nice hill to climb, dumped the rucksack and set off.  Soon I realised the main peak was do-able by scrambling up a snow slope (part of a glacier but no crevasses) to the col and following the ridge to the top.  Here then is my peak of the day.

It's over 3,000 m, but I can't tell you its name because the map was left in my rucksack.  There's something quite special about an unplanned exploration of a route up an unknown mountain, especially without the rucksack!  After retrieving it, I traversed a region not unlike the Rhinogs, with jewels of lakes set in a craggy landscape: lovely, but hard going and I was glad of cake at a refuge.  Then a long descent - by just about the worst maintained alpine path ever: steep, grass hiding slippy stones, nettles, badly signed and seemingly endless.  A frustrating anti-climax to my exploratory adventure!

The second half

Refreshed after my night at the Swiss hut, this morning's climb over loose rock, with no-one else around, brought me to the top, with a good view of Piz Bernina.  Then I retraced my steps back to the hut, reached about 1.0 pm, where I was able to assist two old ladies who requested a hand down over some knotted roots.  All in the day's work!  After cake at the hut (living it up expensively in my brief stay in Switzerland), I went on down to the village with the idea of overnighting in the campsite dorm, but it was fully booked so decided instead to set off on the next stage and bivvy tonight, making for not such a long day tomorrow.  It's good to have the flexibility to vary the plan.

Alpe Campo

I'm now puffing my way up Sima da Saoseo (2,054m), an unplanned peak spotted yesterday from my overnight stop.  Yesterday I had a long, hot day - 33km and 2,400m of ascent, including a snowy pass and two crumbling peaks, the Pizzo Filone and Bita val Nera.  Having no food and it being Sunday, I struck lucky with a buffet breakfast, feasting later on a chocolate bar, eaten with a spoon!  The hot weather spawned a plague of daddy longlegs, everywhere and in my face for some 45 minutes.  I contemplated bivvying on one of the peaks, but a brewing storm encouraged a retreat to a lovely Swiss hut.  That proved a good decision, with a welcome shower to rid me of four days accumulated sweat, muck and sun-cream residue, a good meal and an invite to Davos from a couple living there.
The scenery in this area of Alpe Campo is truly magnificent, with flower-strewn meadows and indescribably blue lakes in wild surroundings of rocky peaks.  Tonight I shall stay in Posciavo and stock up on supplies.

On some snow on my way to Alpe Campo having climbed the Pizzo Filone

From the lonesome trail to crowds

Last night I was the only person staying at a little hut.  It reminded me of an old-school youth hostel: dodgy beds, no showers, only cold water.  Yet it was the most expensive stop so far!  However, a massive meal of soup, a mountain of pasta and apfelstrudel was very welcome: I have to admit that my normal vegetarian diet has been shamelessly abandoned in favour of much needed protein.  Even more welcome after uncomfortable bivouacs was a good night's sleep.

This morning the pass I aimed at didn't live up to its name - it proved impassable because of severe damage by snowfall and avalanches.  So I had to descend 500m and climb up 1,500m to reach my peak of the day, then, to get some lunch, drop down to another pass.  After many days not seeing another soul, what an assault on the senses!  There were hundreds of cyclists attracted by numerous hairpin bends rising to 2,700m, stalls selling trinkets and tat, but also fortunately offering wurst for my lunch.  Now I have a long route ahead of me this afternoon.

Bikka mecca stelvio pass 

Ortler from the path to the stelvio pass

 

A fantastic bivouac

Yesterday, after lunch in Solden, I wandered slowly up through flower-filled meadows, with great views of snow capped mountains and to the music of thundering streams, to reach a bivouac site at about 3,200m.  It wasn't the most comfortable bivvy on a pile of stones, but what a spot!  The full moon shone down on the glaciers opposite and it felt very special sleeping on the mountain, as part of nature.  Not for long though - breakfasting only on a chocolate bar, I set off at 4.40 am over very awkward, loose and broken ground, then ploughing through diabolical, unfrozen, wet snow a metre deep.  I made the main objective of the day, a 3,500m peak, before descending again to Solden, having seen nobody all day.  And in answer to my prayers, my leg was far better and stood the test of a long descent.

Now I've climbed back up about 1,100m to the Tabaretta hut, where at 5.00pm I'm sitting out the afternoon storm.  The weather looks set to follow this pattern for the next week.  So far I've climbed 33 mountains and 20 via ferrata, through Slovenia, Austria and Italy.  I'm now a third of the way (not sure whether to think that's a third full or two thirds empty!).  38C tomorrow!

Looking back at the mountain I climbed by mistake.

A night in the bivvy bag

Me about to try unsuccessfully to get to sleep in my bivvy bag on a pile of stones at 3200 metres near the Vertainspitze.

Rest day

After a strenuous day and a painful 2000m descent down scree yesterday, I enjoyed the luxury of a night in a very pleasant hotel last night, with a five-course dinner!  My leg feels better for the rest today but a 3,500m peak tomorrow will be a severe test.  After another meal at the hotel I am setting off and will bivvy tonight - fortunately the weather is good apart from afternoon thunderstorms.

View from bivvy hut door.

John is in the South Tirral. It has been very hot and 35 degrees in the valley! Last night he stayed in a bivi hut, a hut for one at 2600m, sleeping above the clouds with an amazing sun rise. Today he made it above the snow line for the first time, and onto a snowy ridge, above 3200m. He had another long 13 hour day. However John is suffering from an injury that is slowing him down. He has hurt a muscle above his knee which is causing a jabbing pain particularly worse when he descends.  For a bit of luxury he is staying in a hotel tonight.

How I feel toiling up 2500 metres in the heat!

Land of cheap wine and fruit and bountiful ice cream. A bit of heaven on earth.