About This Blog

This blog not only contains brief updates of a special trip across the Alps, but also details of the trip including video clips, an online photo book and background information.  The journey lasted 63 days and was made solo and largely unsupported, taking a high level route from Slovenia to Monaco.  It is my own route mixing walking, via ferrata, scrambling and mountaineering.  I'm raising money for a local charity working with recovering addicts and homeless persons, by giving talks on the journey.  If you'd like to arrange a talk please get in touch by clicking on the poster image on the left. Enjoy!

the finish

At 1:50 I finished my journey in the sea at menton.  The water was warm and soothing after my long days.  I felt slightly numb and I suspect it will take some time for it to sink in.  I'm utterly exhausted after having to do those 40 km with little sleep and stomach cramps and after two very hard day's before. It was bizarre to join the throngs of holiday makers on the beach.such a different environment from the lonely places. I'll miss the rhythm of the days, the mountains and the wildlife, but I relish having a less intensive schedule. It's been one heck of a trip and I'll write it up properly and post pictures in the days ahead. Thanks especially to my dad for doing most of the blog posts and to Andy for the early ones, and to the incomparable Lawson family for their support in the valley at the end and in the dolomites. I've made it!

The final mountains

My alpine journey is nearly ended, but not before two very hard days.  After completing the traverse of the Mercantour mountains and a last night in a hut, I climbed Monte Argentera (3,297m).  There was a nice scramble to the top, but then a very difficult descent taking two and a half hours, during which my water bottle fell from my rucksack and fell tinkling down the mountainside (glad it wasn't me!).  After a meal I got the poles out and generated a good pace uphill, but it was a tough day, 30 km and 2,500m of ascent in great heat.  At 6.30pm I rather lost it, felt queasy and sick and my stomach rebelled against a mountain of pasta.  So in the shelter of a wall I found a good bivvy spot and had a last night under the stars.  But I was too tired to enjoy it, yet didn't sleep much.  I thought of getting up at 3am, but negotiating a pathless boulder field and glaciated slabs in the dark wasn't appealing, so I set off at 6am, still feeling wretched.  After another pass and following a better path, I met up with Pam at 12 and with a smaller and lighter sack felt a little better, finally reaching the campsite at 4.30, having walked 40 km.  Coming down from the mountains was like entering a heat bowl and, with an easy 20 km tomorrow, I'm really looking forward to finishing.  Menton, here I come!

very soggy on the border

I should have done my half day yesterday.  Today was very wet.  I retraced my steps for two km and went up to the French Italian border. Despite the heavy rain I climbed the cime de laufer and then followed the border to the col lombarde. You can walk over stones marked france/Italy which feels a little odd. Half way I was in danger of getting hypothermic so I sheltered in the overhang of an abandonned hut and stripped off my t shirt for a long sleeved shirt and jumper.  By the time I reached the pass everything was wringing wet so I was glad of being met for the comforts of isola.

Two big days coming up.  I hope to do the argentera tomorrow from the Lombarde pass and then the cime de gelas the next day.  We'll see. The poor weather today makes me appreciate the wonderful days I've had.

No pictures today but a few more from previously.

rest day number 2 and photos

with an unpromising forecast of rain and storms I've opted for a rest day in Isola, or more accurately, a day to match good forecasted weather with the peak I want to do.  In reality its stayed dry, so I hope tomorrow isn't much worse!  I've felt fit and have moved much faster over the past few days but last night I was kept awake by 2 families until 12:30 at night at the camp site and then woke up before 5am.  Not so restful!  I've plenty of time in hand so plan a short day tomorrow when the weather is predicted to be bad in the afternoon and then 2 long days with bivvies when its supposed to be good, followed by the walk out to Menton over the next 2 days.

I've mixed feelings about finishing.  I'm glad not to have a schedule and the continual physical and mental effort but I'll miss the journeying on and the rhythm of the journey.

Yesterday I got caught in a big storm at the wrong time.  I was right at the top of a notch in a rocky ridge with lightening all around.  the thunder was so loud I stuck my fingers in my ears.  The gap between lightening and thunder was less than a second.  the hail came down like a power shower had been turned on full and the sky was pitch black.  I went down after crossing another pass in the same conditions.  I didn't fancy a repeat today.

Finally I've managed to download some of my 1134 photos.  So here's some for starters:

A district of lakes

Despite threatened storms, the good weather persists, so I've continued to make good progress - 32 km yesterday, a similar distance the day before, and probably the same today.  After Larche, yesterday I slogged up a hill, passing probably 150 people (on a trail near a car park!), then after 4.00 pm I saw no-one.  Among the many lakes which are such a feature of this district, Lac Lauzanier was particularly beautiful.  Then after another pass, I walked off-trail in a very wild area of moraine, variously coloured rocks and grass, not unlike Scotland - except that it was hot!  Threatened thunder held off, so I again bivvied near a little lake amidst glacial slabs.  These bivouacs have been the highlight of my journey: choosing a perfect spot with grand scenery, watching the sun set and the afterglow illumine the mountain tops and then falling asleep under the stars.  Then, of course, an early start - this morning it was at 5.15 and still dark, but soon the sun rose into a perfect blue sky and once again it has become hot.  This morning I've passed ten lakes on an amazing path traversing the mountains of the Mercanton range.  If the weather holds, I shall bivvy again tonight.

Postscript.  Well, I did manage 35 km today, but the weather didn't hold!  This afternoon there was a massive thunderstorm: it became black as night, hail lashed down, lightning struck as close as 150m away from me, and the thunder was so loud I had to put my fingers in my ears.  Pretty scary.  I'm now down to the road and waiting for Pam and Martin to pick me up - the storm has cleared away but it's camping and drying out for me tonight, no bivvy!

Aiguille de Chambeyron

Yesterday I stormed along for 30 km through a wonderful area of wild rocky peaks around the Aiguilles de Chambeyron, taking in a 3,000m peak and four mountain passes en route.  In between the passes were paths being walked by lots of people, probably following their guidebooks, and with good reason, for the paths skirted some very pretty lakes.  Then, after a series of tremendous rocky peaks, I came to my bivouac hut in a dramatic location, basically a small tin hut just about able to accommodate two Italians, three French and me.  A good bunch of people, good to talk to.  I rose at sunrise to climb a 3,000m peak overlooking the Aiguille de Chambeyron, the colour of the red rock intensified by the early sunlight.  Then back to the hut and a hot and sunny 14 km walk to Larche, where I'm now sitting having a well earned ice cream.  This is a great area, though it doesn't get easier - still many tiring ascents and I have in front of me a long and rough traverse of the Mercantour range.  That though is the last mountain range in my journey, and there are just seven days left.

Ascent of Monte Viso

The bivouac hut last night was in a lovely wild spot, above a twinkling blue lake, surrounded by rocks.  The hut was packed to capacity, with parties from France, Italy and Germany all intending, like me, to ascend Monte Viso in the morning.  It seemed cramped at first with rucksacks etc everywhere and I was in the attic, but actually it was fine and I had a good chat with a French couple and one of the Germans, and I slept well.  Unusually there was no stove, so I cooked my meal on my camping stove using my sole canister of gas, which conveniently ran out just as I'd heated my morning tea!  Some parties left at 4.00 and 5.30, but I left with the rest at 6.00 am and I'm going well so overtook everyone to arrive at the summit at 8.20.  It was actually a surprisingly easy ascent, with a path to start and then scrambling over red rocks, polished smooth by many feet.  The view from the summit was stupendous; in the clear, still morning air the whole of the alps could be seen - quite brilliant.  I was back at the hut for a meal by 10.10 and then had a leisurely descent to the valley.  It was a thoroughly enjoyable day, though I found that camping a couple of days ago disturbed the rhythm of my days and it took two or three hours to get back into the flow of my journey.

Monte Viso

I'm back in Italy, doing some peaks in the Monte Viso range of spiky, rocky peaks, with lots of alpine flowers, lakes and goats; quite a favourite area of the Italians.  Yesterday I climbed the Tete de Telvas, a nice pointy peak and today the Piz Granero, with a good little scramble to the top and a fine view of Monte Viso.  In between was a very good hut offering conversation and an excellent meal.  So, feeling good and hoping the weather continues to hold, tomorrow I shall climb Monte Viso, at 3,841m the highest I've been on this journey. 

A delayed rendezvous

Yesterday I reached Briançon, a pleasant place where I ate some little treats at an excellent a little way in the direction I wanted to take next day and they would drive up the road and catch me up.  However they were severely delayed by traffic, the weather and a major detour, so I ended up walking 21 km to the end of the road!  Fortunately there was a refuge where, being soaked by the rain, I ordered a vin chaud and had a good meal, before eventually they arrived and we were able to camp.  Today was fine and I climbed the Grand Glaiza and walked in the Queyras National Park, a most wonderful area teaming with wild life, particularly butterflies and many different sorts of cricket in the grasses.  An amazing place for photography, with a striking view of Monte Viso towering above the clouds. 

A soaking in the night

This time my instinct was wrong, as was the weather forecast given in a shop!  The bivvy by Crystal Lake started well - a lovely evening, peaceful and a good meal al fresco, but I was awakened at about 10.30 by distant thunder and not so distant rain.  It then rained hard all night and although my bivvy bag/micro tent is waterproof, my mat is small and not proof against boggy ground near the lake.  I ended up sopping wet, rain hammering on my head, sleepless and cold; at 4.00 am I'd had enough, so put everything on, stuffed the wet things in the sack and set off into the dark, mist and rain.  The high level path wasn't the easiest in the dark - steep, eroded and on a narrow crest - but all those challenging nights navigating the trackless wastes of the Scottish Highlands stood me in good stead.  When the rain eased, I lay down on the path and I think I dropped off for five minutes; anyway, the path has now improved, the sun is out and there's a rainbow.  Fortunately the timing for much needed drying out couldn't be better: I'm meeting Pam & Martin Lawson at a campsite this evening and for the final 13 days I shall have their company in the evenings and a lightened load in my sack.  But beware of optimistic shopkeepers and question your instinct!

Valfréjus

It was a reasonable bivvy last night, but it was cold enough this morning to start walking in my down jacket and gloves before stopping at an amazing bakery in Valfréjus to breakfast off croissants and hot chocolate.  Then followed a walk by Mont Thabor down to a hut for a sandwich by a pleasant little lake.  It's a cool, sunny, breezy day and the scenery is less grand than before, more Mediterranean - dry, many pine trees and lumpy scree mountains, which I'm not tempted to climb.  Now I'm sitting in a little café in the valley having an amazing ice cream, a pastry and a very nice beer.  Well, most people come to France to enjoy the food, so why shouldn't I?

Seven weeks completed

Today I celebrated seven weeks of walking by climbing the Dent Parachée in cool but good weather.  Fortunately I managed to overtake two parties before ascending a couloir to the col - a frightful 50 degree slope of very loose stones and a most unpleasant and fairly dangerous place, most definitely demanding a helmet.  It was impossible to avoid dislodging stones, so it was good not to be in the firing line from anyone above me.  Once on the col, a nice ridge led up to the summit, from where there were sensational views of Mont Blanc, the Grandes Jurasses and, south of me, Monte Viso.  The couloir was no more pleasant on the way down, but I got back to the hut in time for lunch; then a pleasant 13 km walk to Modane.  The first hotel I tried was full and Modane is a drab place centred on the station, so after a pizza and ice cream (still staple items of my diet) I decided to press on and bivouac.  It's one of the pleasures of the trip to go by instinct and change plans.  I did remember passing through Modane in the middle of the night years ago while inter-railing, so twice I've not seen fit to stop there.

A Diversion

Yesterday turned out to be a long day because I carried on to the next hut, the Refuge Fournache.  It was a brilliant afternoon, with a strong wind, white horses on the lake, a vibrancy in the atmosphere and a wonderful contrast between sun, cloud and the shale-like mountains.  I intended to climb the Dent Parrachée today, but there was too much stonefall so instead I followed a great path traversing the mountains and returned to the Fournache hut tonight.  Again, the weather today was amazing, windy with clouds constantly forming and evaporating.  I'm hoping to do the mountain tomorrow if I get a good night's sleep.

The beautiful Vanoise National Park

I continue to go well - almost 40 km yesterday including a big ascent and still reached the Col de Palet hut at 5.15 pm. This proved to be a really good hut, where the guardian served up a big meal and I had a nice talk with a Swiss lady.  The guardian also suggested a few summits I might like to climb, though with a justified gentle warning this morning that I was setting off late for glacier crossing.  I set off in superb weather, with not a cloud in the deep blue sky, and climbed the Grande Motte, with a good ridge leading to the 2,650 m summit.  I'm now coming down to the Refuge de la Leisse on a perfect day.  The Vanoise is a protected area, with no camping, and the scenery is wonderful, with wild places to explore and good paths without too many people.  Bliss!   Should reach Modane in a couple of days if the good weather continues.

Into France going South

I've made very good progress over the last four days - from near the Matterhorn, past Mont Blanc and now into France.  I'm now at least two days ahead of schedule and going much better, partly because it's much cooler, but also I've got a better rhythm going on easier trails.  On the first night after leaving Courmayeur when the huts were fully booked, I found a bar open at 9.30 pm, had a coffee and then slept in a barn.  The next day I started early along the Tour de Mont Blanc trail, OK for the first couple of hours, but then thronged with people and rather boring.  This 25 km section is the only part of my entire1,800 km route which I've done before, though not exactly seen, because it was running through the night. Thankfully leaving the Tour de Mont Blanc trail, I crossed over the Col d'Estaing into France and down the far side in windy weather with dribs and drabs of rain through a scenic area with impressive boulders, pinnacles, mountain goats and a lovely lake.  The next hut being full, I pressed on to the next for a meal and welcome shelter for the night from wind and rain. Now I'm on the Grande Randonnée 5 route, leading south into the Parc National de la Vanoise and on down all the way to Menton, my ultimate destination.

Too many people!

The heavy rain of last night ceased at breakfast time, and a fine day helped me to reach Courmayeur early at 4.45 pm, despite being tempted to leave the Alte Via 1 trail to climb a small summit, thinking it would be quieter.  How wrong I was - there were hoards of people; maybe the peak was in a guide book.  Coumayeur was also heaving - it's now peak season and the crowds are not what I've come for, so I had something to eat, picked up my new boots and supplies and left.  Out of the frying pan of too much solitude into the fire of too crowded!  The problem is that the huts are now fully booked and I couldn't book anywhere for tomorrow night, when rain is again threatened.  I shall leave the Mont Blanc trail as soon as I can and meanwhile tonight find somewhere to bivouac.

It has been a good day though.  The views of Mont Blanc and the Grandes Jurasses were really fantastic, with lots of fresh snow from last night's storm and a plume of spindrift blowing off the summit.  It's been a breezy day and much cooler - I wore a top over my tee shirt for the first time on the journey.

St-Remy en Bosse

Yesterday evening I finally reached a good place for my bivouac at 9.30 pm and quickly got to sleep.  Waking in the night, the stars were brilliant and starlight outlined the jagged outline of the surrounding peaks.  Such a wonderful alpine experience.  Setting off early this morning, I decided not to use my poles today, helpful as they are in managing to walk with a heavy rucksack; through constant use I've developed a  repetitive strain injury in both wrists, which needs resting.  It was mostly a much better day than forecast, but in the last stages the weather broke and I got soaked before reaching St.Remy, at the foot of the Great St.Bernard pass.  Taking refuge in the hotel for coffee and cake, it being too expensive to stay there the night, the lady very kindly 'phoned a nearby B&B and directed me there.  It turned out to be a small apartment, complete with cooking facilities, so rather than set out again to a restaurant in the rain and thunder after an 11-hour day, I cobbled together a scratch meal.  If I continue lucky with the weather, I should reach Courmayeur tomorrow, a day earlier than expected, and I shall be pretty well back on schedule. 

Dinner at a bus stop

An excellent day today and I'm feeling so much better - I'm well and fit, it's not so hot and the paths are good, so progress is much easier and faster.  I'm now following the Alte Via 1, a much frequented trail used for the Tour de Geants, and plan to keep on this well signed route to Courmayeur, without deviating to climb any peaks.  Today I walked from Valtournenche to Oyace; the forecast thunderstorms didn't materialise, the scenery was good and I really enjoyed fluidity of movement in the absence of obstructing vegetation.  Two thirds of the time I've allowed have elapsed and I'm feeling good.  I hope to make Courmayeur by Sunday, when I can pick up new boots left for me at the Guides' office; I reckon the present ones will just about get me there!  Just now it's a lovely evening, I'm eating my dinner at a convenient bus stop and will bivouac in some alpine meadow.

Valtournenche!

Yesterday was a very long day, with 3,300m of ascent.  I reached a hut at 6.00 pm and was hungry, so I had some lasagne and a shandy, but was told the hut I was aiming for was closed.  Anyway I plodded on up into the cloud, rather regretting the shandy, until at 9.15 I arrived at the top of the Olen pass and found that the said hut was indeed closed, because semi-derelict.  Fortunately, by shifting a bench blocking the door, I got inside out of the cold cloud and actually had a good night sleeping on the floor.  Dawn revealed a good view of Monte Rosa and my descent joined the Monte Rosa trail.  How strikingly different from the wild, pathless, deserted terrain already traversed!  An excellent path, lots of people, signs indicating the degree of difficulty and estimated time of travel; difficult here though equates to dead easy on my prior travels.  It's something of a milestone to arrive in Valtournenche and a great advantage to restock at a selection of supermarkets and shops instead of an isolated bar.  And I've just had a four-course meal at a nice hotel.  Luxury!