The second and last post from me for a while.  Jon is going on to chamonix and I'm self reliant for 5 weeks so no means of me personally updating the blog.  My "easy"day was still 20 miles and it was very hot and sweaty. I've stacked up on plasters, painkillers and cream for my errant muscle. I'll have a high Bivvy tomorrow then huts.  The temperature in the valley bottom is set to exceed 35C over the next few days.  I had an immediate dip in the camp site pool on getting back today. In the words of the master (doctor who fans will know what I mean) I'm so hungry.

hot and steamy

No not a racy novel but the weather in Bolzano. I'm in the wooded valleys for a day or two.  This gives relief for my long suffering left leg which has caused me much grief.  Thank God for poles.  The dolomites have been amazing.  I've managed 20 via ferrata up to grade 5. I've not met one person on any of these including some real classics like the Olivieri on the tofana or tomaselli on the punta fanes.  Now it's quite busy but with long days there is plenty of time to think.  The evenings with lovely light are particularly special. Without a computer I can't upload images so you'll just have to imagine it. Feeling better now but still have a cold and my leg muscles are like piano wire. I think I'm going to have to miss out the glaciated summits but will try to do as many others as possible. This is actually much more in keeping with the journey as a whole which is very largely a solo enterprise. Talking kit, the keen socks have been very comfortable and hard wearing, the Lowe alpine sack very well designed and the Lowe shirt remarkably unsmelly after a few days wear.  My mutant running shoes have superb grip on wet rock but are wearing thin on the sole now.  The black diamond collapsible poles have also been superb.  The legs are showing signs of several falls - scrapes, bruises and so on - the result of descending some truly hideous scree and rock faces at a high angle where everything is moving. The joy of forest trails tomorrow!

On the Plattkotel

Finished the Dolomites today with 3 great via ferrata. Some great thunderstorm wich made for slippy ropes. Leg still hurting.  

Leg injury

The weather has been better today but the leg injury I sustained a few days slipping has been hurting today, particularly going downhill. A 13.5 hour day with a lat finish at the hut, 9:30 pm. Some amazing via ferrata coming off the last summit – huge vertical drops, over 350m – incredible!

Punta Fanes

 

A day of excellent via ferrata. A long 14 hour day, started at 6 finished at 8. The first via ferrata was grade 5, the hardest, and it had its moments – 2010m accent, straight up. It was spectacular. The second was a grade 4 – but still very good. Great evening light walking back down – with rock walls light up red.

 



On the Oliviesi route to the Tofana

Drei Zinnen

One of the six classic north faces in the alps. Been doing some via ferrata opposite today. Over 40km again today. Now heading to Cortina!

Lost in the woods

A fantastic day yesterday with some excellent via ferrata.  But more problems today, got lost 4 times in the forest. Cost nearly 2 hours! Blamed it on the map being slightly inaccurate. Stopped at a nice hotel for food and then was going to do some more via ferrrata but due to the mist and snow decided not to, but ended up being on the wrong side of the mountain from meeting John. Should meet John tomorrow and head for Cortina.

On would you believe Barenbadegg! Main dolomites in the background

Interesting weather over the last few days. Massive hail that could really hunt - I needed my helmet at one point! Some big thunderstorms too. Its been snowing which, along with the mist, has mad some navigation difficult. First person this year up one of the mountains - there is a book to sign and the last person was last November. Another good hut last night with great food.
Overall, its been really tough going. 9 days now with 12 hours a day. Up between 5 and 6 every morning to get ready, off between 6 and 7, little rest, wet weather for 2/3rds of the day, all with a heavy pack.  I will have to adjust my schedule!

Vf porze

 

This is of showing what it felt like to be pounded by enormous hail stones

Had a great day yesterday, my shortest day so far - only 11 hours. Some excellent via ferrata - great rock, great scrambling - very enjoyable. Now seeing lots of people in the ski resorts but soon leave them behind further up the mountain. Stayed last night in a nice farmstead, had a good meal and was in a dormitory on my own  - good job with my cold! Had a scary electrical storm today with massive thunder - don't what any more of those!

Looking out from my bivvy. It was cold and I got very little sleep.

I felt like death this morning. Feeling very tired and suffering a from a chill. Too much wet weather with a heavy pack has left me exhausted. Feet starting to suffer due to the damp too. Another long day today, 14 hours and 42km. Actually saw someone else today - an Australian! But looking forward to some via ferrata tomorrow.

Entering Austria in heavy rain

A good nights sleep ...

Feel a lot better today after a good night’s sleep. Stayed in a great hut and got everything dry in their tumble dryer. Had a good meal. Looking forward to an easier day today, mainly walking through woods in a mountainous terrain. It’s nice not to have the concentration required or pressure from the via ferrata as so much of it was not roped. Boots are great really comfortable. Hope to get some gas today and might try biving tonight.  

A huge cave under the ridge half way up the route.

Tired today after a poor night’s sleep. 13.5 hours yesterday and the hut with the winter room I had hoped to use was closed, so a bad night spent in a cable car station! At least I could use the cables to dry my very wet clothes!  Its rained hard again today and I’ve haven’t seen anyone. More exciting via ferrata, not helped by the snow patches and the rain – making it hard to grip the wires but sometimes there weren’t even any wires!  Another long day planned for tomorrow, but I may have to shorten to due to more heavy rain forecast!

Just came down the barnberger weg on triglav in the rain with my sack!

On Triglav after a storm

Had a great day today, moving well with the pack feeling more comfortable. Summited Triglav, the highest mountain in Solvenia at 2, 864m. Some great via ferrata, although slightly scary as covered in snow with a very heavy hail and thunder storm at the start. Glad I had my ice axe! Decided not to stay in a hut tonight but push on to a winter room – it just means a dinner of bread and butter and bars as I have no gas!

On the high ridge in one of the better spells of weather. 40 km today.

Finally made it to a great hut after a long, hard day. Over 40km, 2000m accent and 12.5 hours.  Mix weather – thunder storms, lightning, hail, wind and gales. Mainly walking in the clouds. Sore shoulders as pack still heavy. Forecast poor with heavy rain so will plan a shorter day. Shame as I was looking forward to the via ferrata. Saw no one today, but was attacked by a goat!

Discovering the gas canister doesn't fit. What will I do with 4 days of food?

.. fortunately the hut, where I am staying in their winter room, is due to open tomorrow so I could use their kitchen! Made it up Porezen, 1630m, on a hot a humid day with a heavy pack of food, that I'm not sure I can cook! Heavy rain due tomorrow, may need a change of plan.

A crazed man arrived in Italy. Top icecream!

Almost packed and ready to go

The last few days have seen me packing and repacking.  Lowe Alpine generously donated a couple of lightweight rucksacks.  I tried to stuff everything in to the 35 litre one, but failed miserably.  In the end I've more than filled the 45 litre sack which is heavier than I'd have liked but I can't see what I can leave out without risking being uncomfortable or unable to do what I'd like.  So after numerous iterations the sack weighs 12.5 kg plus food and water which amounts to around 4kg. 

My kit for the first couple of weeks - I will move like a snail

I've got a stove. kettle and about 4 days of food, but a lot of the weight is kit - rucksack (1.1kg), hooped bivvy (0.9kg), sleeping bag, harness, via ferrata set, helmet, ice axe, poles, crampons, camera, jacket, waterproof trousers, mat and clothing, plus 7 maps.  I can't go too lightweight because I want to be able to deal with cold and wet over a period, and many of the huts are shut in the first week.  I've put in enough food to cope, but I expect to be hungry!

Hmm.  Contemplating my load.

So everything is in place.  Ready to go!

Ready to go

Less than a week to go and pretty much everything is in place.  I've made some pasta sauce and dried it for my bivvies - much better than the bought freeze dried meals and it rehydrates nicely.  I might make some flapjack too.

The snowline has retreated very significantly so I'll probably take the kahtoolas for my solo mountaineering.  I've plenty of kit and I just need to decide what to leave out.  A difficult decision, because once made, I'm committed for the duration.

I've downloaded plenty of music on to the phone for the less compelling sections and lots of talks and sermons to provide some focus for my thoughts.  I'll take a basic kindle so I've oodles of reading matter.  let's see how much I actually read when I'm tired!

I actually start walking next Friday after a day and a half of travelling.  Many of the huts in the early days are shut so I'll have to mix huts with winter rooms and bivvies.  Roll on next Thursday when I leave for Trieste.